CHICAGO — Outerwear in the Windy City demands architectural integrity and sartorial authority. In celebrating Coach’s 85th anniversary for Spring 2027, Creative Director Stuart Vevers engineered a masterclass in modern protection, deconstructing the classic double-breasted trench and heavy wool overcoat into an inside-out study of structural luxury.
Staged in an expansive downtown setting styled like an industrial loft salon, the presentation felt both intimate and monumental. Vevers turned traditional outerwear inside out, exposing structural canvas, hand-finished interlinings, and raw silk pockets. For Chicagoans navigating lakefront gusts and high-altitude architecture, these pieces offer an intellectual rethinking of classic midwestern layering.
Architectural Proportions & Windproof Leathercraft
Proportions were generous yet impeccably tailored. Heavyweight wool gabardines and burnished glove-tanned leathers were cut with broad shoulders and gentle draping that flows effortlessly in motion. Subtly worn baseball leather trims and horn turnlocks paid direct homage to the house’s mid-century origins, offering timeless defense against shifting seasons.
Spring 2027 Runway Gallery: Luca Zanoni Photography
Explore the full selection of 11 runway looks, inside-out tailoring, and iconic leathercraft from the 85th Anniversary presentation below:
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Arrivals & Front Row: Celebrities at Pier 36
Star-studded arrivals gathered at Pier 36 to celebrate 85 years of Coach. VIP attendees included Elle Fanning, Storm Reid, Troye Sivan, Iris Law, and Ayra Starr:
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Backstage Beauty & First Looks: Pat McGrath & Guido
Backstage at Pier 36, Dame Pat McGrath conceptualized luminous glass-skin finishes with metallic eyelid shimmers reflecting the collection’s lamé eveningwear, paired with natural textured hair by Guido:
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The Official Show Credits
Creative Director: Stuart Vevers
Stylist: Olivier Rizzo
Set Designer: Stefan Beckman
Casting: Ashley Brokaw
Hair: Guido
Makeup: Dame Pat McGrath
Nails: Naomi Yasuda
Music: Senjan Jansen
Live Orchestral Performance: UpBeat NYC
Choreography & Dance: Arturo Lyons
Runway & Details Photography: Luca Zanoni
Arrivals & Beauty Photography: Ben Rosser / BFA Images (First Looks | Arrivals | Beauty)
Byline: Eschelle Demure for Chicagolife Magazine.
Curated Literature & Chicago Downtown Calendar
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